Voron Trident build


Why a Voron Trident:

  • It’s an enclosed printer to promote healthy geekroom air quality through the use of an enclosure and an air filter.
  • It’s CoreXY and Klipper and therefore has a lot of opportunities for cleaner prints because of better motion control. At the same time, it doesn’t have quite as much somewhat-questionable complexity as the V2.4 printer.
  • I feel like the Ender 3v2’s bed was a bit too small, so getting something bigger was always on my mind. At the same time, a 350mm printer is just too big.
  • There are multiple options for multi-material printing, either the ERCF v2/Tradrack, a IDEX mod, or the Dakash toolchanger.
  • It’s open source and community supported but you can still get a kit to assemble, which is cheaper than the fully-supported-closed-source expensive quality printer but better off than the sketchy printer that’s basically community supported except someone still claims ownership over the design and nominally acts like it’s something other than community supported.
  • I took apart the Ender 3v2’s hotend, a Slice Engineering Mosquito, because it was a bit bent and I’m not entirely sure where the actual problem is but the tiny little M1.4 screws that hold it together aren’t threading very well and I’ve kinda made up my mind that I should replace the Ender so I might as well work on the new hotness.

Parts List

QtyPart #DescriptionManufacturer
1Voron Trident Pro kitVoron Trident R1 Pro kit with Dragon Standard Flow hotendFormbot3D
1Voron Trident Functional Parts, Plutonic Purple, Self Sourced, Dragon hotendcPIF printed functional parts for a 300mm tridentFabreeko
1Voron Trident Complete Parts Add-On, Plutonic Purple, Self Sourced, Dragon hotendcPIF printed complete add-on to the functional partsFabreeko
1Magnet sheetMagnet sheet with high-temp glueFabreeko
1Edge to edge bed heaterEdge to edge bed heater with better adhesiveFabreeko
2CFM-6020V-237-280Fan Tubeaxial 24VDC Square - 60mm L x 60mm H omniCOOL™ Magnetic Sleeve 19.0 CFM (0.532m³/min) 2 Wire LeadsCUI Devices

Build Log

Step 3: Y and Z axes, and some side-quests

I ended up on a few side-quests while doing this.

See, I want the inverted electronics mod. The key part of the mod is, of course, the brackets that flip the DIN rails upside down. But also you have modified Z stepper motor mounts that don’t grip the panel anymore. Except those are going to get hot and so they really needed to be printed out of ASA, so that provided the final push for me to get my Zero printing high-temperature materials which led off on a few more side quests.

Then I had to switch gears to wrap up a project that a nice lady has been waiting on me to finish.

And then I had the soldering iron out and decided to just read forward in the manual and put in a bunch of heat-set inserts before I continued, such that I wouldn’t need to pause my assembly process to add any more heat-sets.

Y Axis

The frame is pretty flexy. I spent a bunch of time squaring the frame at the start but even though I got things fairly tight, everything worked itself loose and so pretty much everything has fallen out of square, just from moving it around to get the right working angle.

As I’d written previously, you can get a HCJ5 screw joint that will make the blind joints keyed. There’s also the keyed Mismui corner cubes.

I got some aftermarket 2020 nuts and it turns out they are also pretty annoying. I got one batch of M5 nuts will actually pop in mostly OK, but the M3 nuts from the same manufacturer won’t and the M5 and M3 nuts that I got also won’t. All of the nuts, including the out-of-spec ones that came with the printer, work perfectly well if you put them in pre-assembly.

Getting enough actual drop-in nuts from Misumi USA adds up fast, BTW.

Furthermore, I thought I had a reasonable rule to sort out the extrusions but it turns out that I was wrong.

I was thinking that it felt weird to not have a laundry list of things to preload ahead of time, given that I built a Zero first, but I think the easiest road forward is to just treat it as a Zero and preload a bunch of nuts.

While I was disassembling it, I realized that the orientation of the T-nuts that they show in the manual is important. If you orient them as the manual suggests it tends to result in the screw holes being exactly where you think they ought to be, which is helpful.

I’m also adding some right-angle 2020 extrusion reinforcements and corner brackets for 2020 extrusions to some corners where it looks like I can get away with it.

So I squared the whole thing all over again. With the added bracing, now I can rotate it to get the right angle without worrying about things going out of square. I’ll see how it works out and remove them later on if they get in the way.

Z Axis

  • In order to do the inverted electronics mod, I’ve gotta slipstream in the modified stepper mounts.
  • Missed 4x M5 T-nuts in my pre-loading binge but thankfully the M5 nuts I got are actually fairly happy being jammed in there.
  • While assembling the three Z joints, it just says to put an M5 nut in there, except that it’s going to just fall out if I do that. I read forwards and it looks like eventually an M5x16 bolt goes through there, so I’ll add that now so that the nut doesn’t go flying.
  • Also missed some nuts on the skirt. What I ended up needing to do is thread a bolt into the nut and kinda yank it around.

I wanted to get to the end of the Z axis section. It was a bit tricky getting to the end of the chapter but I guess it was either defeat or the feet.


Y and Z axis done

  • There’s several large projects that are blocked on account of not having a full-sized printer, so I really really want this done.
  • The frame is really flexy with the thing partially assembled even with some braces added.
  • At this point, with the feet on, I can now look and think and decide just how badly I want a 300mm Z axis or if I should stick to the 250mm.

Step 2: Stopping at the Y axis

An accidental clee day

I noticed that, because of Clee Day on the Voron Discord, West3D had a deal on titanium backers and a kinematics mount. So I was planning on getting steel backers and the kinematics mount later, but I guess we’ll have those on the way now.

Siboor Trident R1 vs Formbot Trident Pro

This came out after I’d ordered my Formbot Trident. It’s interesting! I look forward to people’s build logs.

Neither printer is going to have a taller Z-axis, you need LDO or MagicPhoenix CBT Pro to get that.

Using Cartographer instead of TAP is interesting. I wonder if there’s going to be a usable mode for some sort of Z-tap mode on the Cartographer in the same way as the Beacon has to make nozzle change and different print surface thickness a problem of the past.

The CNC components are interesting. The plus side is that they won’t break and they let you reach Forbidden temperatures. On the other hand, a lot of folks have spent a lot of time explaining why they don’t really improve your in any useful fashion, although the AWD mod is designed for CNC instead of printed parts… so maybe that’ll be better?

This one has the Manta v2.0 instead of the v1.1 on my Formbot. I think there was like 1 or 2 things that annoyed me about the 1.1 that made me want the 2.0 but I am presently forgetting.

I am glad that everybody’s putting in filters these days, although overall I am more a fan of the overkill StealthMax than the included Fume Pack or the smaller Nevermore Micro.

And, dono, I was probably going to do the Monolith Gantry at some point for mine, the sheet cooler was a thought, etc. The only thing that feels supremely wild is the beefy motors that may or may not make a useful difference to speed or print quality but definitely might score you drinks at the super-secret Voron cabal meetings.

My big concern about most of these kits is that we don’t have an organized fashion for kit-makers to communicate how they have deviated from stock, nor is the manual well-constructed to make it easy for deviated printers. The problem is that if Siboor doesn’t provide adequate support and self-help resources for their modded printers, it’s going to end up being an unfair drag on the Voron community. And this is really the same concern I have with the printer I actually purchased, it’s just that the Siboor one goes farther off.

Obviously, most people build a Voron only because they are prepared to actually go all of the way and, furthermore, an unmodded Voron is kind of a sad Voron. Also, if we’re looking at the kits people tend to get, there’s presumably a lot of Siboor kits out there.

Ugh wrists

So I’m pretty sure I strained a tendon in my right wrist while I was building the zero. SO I looked at the Project Farm and Torque Test videos and decided that the Skil Twist 2.0 looked the most reasonable for something to reduce the wrist-stress. I already have a set of reasonably good Makita metric drill bits and accessories but I did pick up some Ball-End Hex bits and a flexible shaft from McMaster Carr.

The problem is that blind joints need to fit inside of the blind joint hole and these won’t, so it’s not useful for the frame itself. Otherwise, it’s nice and most other things don’t use a wrench hole.

Linear Rail prep

I couldn’t print a bathtub for the rails so I ended up using a 2.5 gallon ziploc bag, which was kind of a mess because the bag leaked. But the rail lubing was a lot easier the second time around.

Component prep

Pg 13 on the manual and the BOM generator both suck and there is already a bug report. For my 300mm bed size build, I was able to spot the A extrusions (there’s 9 of them) and then the B extrusions (there’s 4 of them, with the particular set of holes). The C and F extrusions are the same length, the difference is that the C extrusion is tapped and the F is not. Then you end up with a pile of short extrusions. For the 300mm bed size, the H is the shortest, the G is only 2mm longer, the D is a bit longer, F is longer, then the rest. If you are building the even larger 350mm bed size Trident, the same sorting order should apply.

Ideally the kit-maker should just label the darn things. However, the BOM generator should show the letters of the extrusions and the manual should contain a better phrased of what I just wrote. I got the sorting order wrong, so I’m not sure what the right way is to sort this out.


Misumi makes an HCJ5 screw joint for 2020 extrusions that contains an BHCS M5 screw but has this little metal bit that makes the alignment process just a bit easier. Presumably a kit-maker could make some cut-rate version of this part and bundle this as a real pro feature. Or, I dono, you can always just buy a bunch of them, at $1.93 each for I think 21 of them?

The frame was a fairly quick assembly, it’s just that it’s a lot bigger than a Zero, so I ended up needing to get it to it’s designated spot on the shelf. And I used my 1-2-3 blocks and clamps to square all of the joints up. Basically, 1-2-3 blocks are supposed to be very square and if you get a pair or a set of four, they should be square in exactly the same way and dimensioned exactly the same. You could also use an engineer’s square but the nice part about 1-2-3 blocks is that they are heavy chonky things that are easy to clamp to and presumably more square than a cheap cast 90 degree clamp.

I ended up using a set of calipers to measure things to get the two middle A extrusions at the right height because using the extrusion as a reference only works with the 250mm version and I don’t quite trust the printed spacers.

Oh, and a note about my shelving unit: I designed it to replace an IKEA wire shelving unit that used to live there and it turns out that a shelving unit a smidgen bigger than 24 in × 24 in was about the right size, so I built it out of 2020 extrusion because that way it’s sturdy yet flexible. I assumed that I’d eventually replace my Ender 3v2 with something bigger, so I ended up looking at the size for a 300mm × 300mm × 300mm Voron 2.4 or a Jubilee printer or maybe just a CR-10, took the largest dimension of any of the three of them and used that to make a reference cube for the shelving design. So it was no surprise that it fits, but it’s good that it really does.

So, yes, I’ve got a 2020-extrusion based printer sitting in a 2020-based shelving unit.

Frame on a shelf

A/B Drive and Idler

  • The included shims on the Trident kit are a lot less variable than the Zero’s. I still decided to use the shims I got from McMaster-Carr.
  • Also, I wanted to start the printer on an auspicious day in my spouse’s faith but wasn’t ready to actually order the kit, so I got some F695 bearings and some hammerhead M3 nuts. I’m using the F695’s I got on the auspicious day for the set of bearings on the idlers.
  • The cPIF parts in bags with labels make it a lot easier to find stuff than the intricately packed foam sheets.

A and B drive and idlers

Y Axis: blocked by bad nuts

I was going to stop at the A/B Drive and Idler step, but I noticed the next step needed the roll-in nuts and I might as well see how well they fit… and yep, both the M3 and M5 roll-in nuts are the bad batch.

Bad nuts

This is a bit easier for me to critique because I’ve got some genuine Misumi roll-in nuts, which I use to mount things on the shelving unit. You can see one of my Mismui nuts to the left side of the picture, with the supplied nuts on the right side. And the supplied nuts, they work as pre-assembly nuts if you want to do your Trident build the way you’d build a Zero with all of the nuts pre-loaded or you can kinda maybe sometimes crunch it down such that it acts as it’s supposed to, except not very well. Because the Mismui nuts work, it’s clear that someone just didn’t quite make it to the right tolerance.

So I decided that this was enough for this weekend and sent a message to the support address instead of fighting with it. I’m just savoring the irony that I got a bag of hammerhead nuts instead of a bag of roll-in spring nuts.


Considering that I did the Zero first now a Trident, everything feels absurdly giant! And it feels weird to not have a laundry list of things to preload ahead of time, it feels like I’m screwing up.

Step 1: Prep work

I figured it was time to order my Trident because my Zero was starting to print reasonable and clean prints, except that I was in the middle of some projects that required a larger print bed. Remembering that the Zero took a while to show up, I put in the order and kinda forgot that I was getting it from the US warehouse and maybe I should keep a closer eye on the delivery date.

Thus, it was a few days into the week where I was not supposed to do lifting or housework.

Which meant that my spouse comes upstairs and tells me that she got the giant heavy box inside but if I wanted to get it upstairs, it could wait until I was better. And how big is this printer going to be anyways?

Which meant that this conversation happened:

300x300 millimeters right?

The problem wasn’t that I was being difficult or trying to re-enact the meme, it’s just that I realized that I had hit the second frame of the meme and I couldn’t respond because I could see the meme in my mind’s eye.

Kit selection

There are three popular expansions of CBT. The first is Cognitive Behavioral Therapy, a well-regarded drug-free treatment methodology for conditions such as depression. The second is the one people often find when they search for the first and regret. The third is the MagicPhoenix CBT kits, where CBT means CanBus + Tap.

I was planning on getting a CBT kit but they are out of stock and if I look around the official Voron discord’s channel for them, it sounds like they have gone eerily silent. I’m not sold on the Tap, the CanBus seems like an upgrade, and the full 300mm Z axis would be really really nice.

The LDO kit has the full 300mm but it’s pricier and out-of-stock as well. There were some noises that there’s a new Trident on the way out but it sounds like it’s not a new Trident version, it’s just that LDO is making their kit fancier.

Thus, it looks like I might as well use the Formbot kit, and when I was ready to get the kit, the new “Pro” version arrived which has CanBus and Tap and some other bits and pieces… but not the 300mm Z-axis. Given that I kinda want to DOOMCUBE it, I can actually fix this down the road either by getting a set of the LDO steppers or by switching to a belted Z or deciding that 250mm on the Z axis is just fine.

The Voron discord is fairly negative about the high-flow Dragon but the standard-flow Dragon sounds fine. Mostly, I’m not printing speed-benchies here; what I want is good print quality but fast, where I can always add a CHT nozzle if I need more performance, so I’m leery about an overly high-flow hot-end. It feels most reasonable to have two identical hot-ends, at which point I can figure out what my performance limits look like and then upgrade then.

The Doom Tri

There’s the Trident-EZBake otherwise known as the “DOOMCUBE Trident”. Basically, replacing some of the 2020 extrusions with 4020 or 4040 extrusions. It’s a bit of a choose-your-own-adventure but the advantage of the is that you can insulate the printer better.

Presumably, at some point in the future, I’ll start in on a project where I do this, and at that point I’ll also address Z-height if I want.

Filter options

It feels like the goal is to be able to switch airflow setups and take advantage of having more room than a Zero. Obviously there needs to be some experimentation. But ABS likes a hot chamber and also it puts out a lot of VOCs so you want a configuration where there’s minimum outflow, basically just what is necessary to create negative pressure and/or prevent it from overheating. And then PLA wants a room-temperature chamber and it would be nice to have the airflow out be enough such that I don’t need to open the doors and lid. Which, obviously, might not actually be possible.

I figure a VOC sensor inside of the printer chassis is a requirement over time.

Some options for the Trident:

  • Nevermore Micro - The V6 version is much improved over past revs, doesn’t require you to sing “CUT MY FAN INTO PIECES / THIS IS MY LAST RESORT” while building one. I have the mechanical bits for a Nevermore Micro in the box with the printer.
  • THE FILTER - Positioned so as to better act as a bed fan than the Nevermore filters.
  • Nevermore Mini - Adds a HEPA filter and more filter medium, better positioned so as to circulate air within the chamber.
  • StealthMax - This one is interesting because of the exhaust slider and overall largeness.
  • Voron HEPA exhaust filter
  • BentoBox V2

The StealthMax is the most interesting because presumably with the exhaust slider, it’s most of the way there. Versus using an internal filter that’s just recirculating and then an external filtered exhaust that can be throttled and/or closed off.

Klipper + Docker + Ansible

My end-goal here is to apply a single Ansible role to both a Trident and a Zero such that both printers look and act alike and have the same klipper macros.

Given the Formbot kit just moved to a Manta, this also means I need a Pi compute module.

Other mods and odds

I suspect the Trident is going to end up with fewer added mods streamlined in than the Zero, especially because there’s not the same thing with preloading nuts.

Looking at the fans and where they are used, it looks like I might stick with the electronics compartment fans sized the same, just the quieter versions thereof, instead of doing a larger-scale skirt mod.

On the Voron discord the Trident Inverted Electronics mod was suggested as one of the few mods that you would want to do to a stock printer.

I probably want the Xol toolhead or maybe the DragonBurner on account of either one being lighter and with better cooling and there was discussion there that suggests that the best extruder for flexibles is the Vz-Hextrudort-Low but with the straight gears instead of the angled gears.

I kinda want to replace the Tap sensor with a Beacon now that it can work as both a radar sensor and a touch probe. At some point.

The Kinematic bed and the Monolithic Gantry sound like some other improvements.

I’ve already got a lot of the spare bits (screwdrivers, bearings, et al) and required tools.

Comparing the Formbot Trident printables folder against the stock

For a while, Formbot helpfully gave you a giant zip file containing “their” printable set. They applied their own organizational scheme which I guess might be helpful in some cases, but it’s also a bit of a hassle.

When I looked in, I found the files to be a mish-mash of stuff. There are files missing, where I’m not sure if that means that I don’t need them (for example, because it’s CANBus + Tap) or because somebody forgot, because the Formbot discord already contains examples of people finding missing files. And then there are some files that seem to match prior versions of the repo. So it feels like a mess. And Formbot took it down and promise to put up a GitHub repo shortly.

Paraphrasing what I wrote on their discord, the things you want to know are:

  • What mechanical deviations from stock to expect - for example, the 3 to 6 board, the wiring’s a bit different, etc. This is already generally there in the ordering page, but it’s nice to have as an independent reference.
  • What parts we shouldn’t print, either because they aren’t necessary or because they are replaced by one of the custom files.
  • When given a choice between multiple parts (e.g. 2 hole or 3 hole chain link) which one to pick.
  • Links to the required mods, where appropriate (this is in the PDF already, at least for the Trident).
  • Presumably what git hash on the upstream the kit is built around (e.g. if they do a point release for the Trident files on git down the road, we know what the stable long-term reference is)
  • A changelog of changes to kits sold under the same name (e.g. if the Trident Pro changes things, that would be a good call-out, but if you call it the Trident Super because it’s got some new fancy feature, that’s an obvious difference)

It’s obviously easier to store these on a git repo, especially if there’s multiple versions or bugfixes.

I can definitely appreciate that for the mods you might still want to package those because Printables is not really a git-style repository where you can provide a git hash.

I’d also suggest that it’s probably better to not fork the repo to create a customized repo unless you are intending to actually fork the printer.


When I asked on the Formbot discord what to tell PIF providers, it was suggested that I explain what version of the kit I had. So I added that to the “special instructions” on the Formbot and crossed my fingers.

I think I got what I needed out of the commercial PIF program. I’ll find out as I go. Thankfully all of the important parts are designed to be printed on a V0, which I presently have.

It comes in bags with labels on the bags indicating what’s in the bag by filename, plus a mysterious unlabeled bag that’s all of the extra bits that I need. I was worried that I wasn’t getting the complete parts kit for a while before I compared the STL files against the parts in the unlabeled bag and realized that’s where the special Tap parts and everything lived.

I think the packing method is actually fine as compared to the way the Formbot printed parts kit for the zero came in a foam box, outside of shipping constraints, because I ended up sorting the Formbot parts for the zero into bags anyway.

Formbot Roll-in nuts

Apparently some folks have been having problems with the roll-in nuts provided with the kit. I will see what happens there.

It’s time to start

One of my tasks was to get the Ender 3v2 mostly back together and get all of my little spare parts and stuff specific to that printer bagged up for whoever I offload the printer to.

Empty shelf ready for a Trident to arrive